![]() ![]() Most of the time you won't need to make any changes from what we supply as standard, but hopefully, this article has provided enough information for you to understand the basic ergonomics and make an informed decision about whether to go with a regular chair and table height, or tweak accordingly. Add in the cushions (and they're only around 3cm thick) and all of a sudden the dimensions work (right of diagram). Whilst without any cushions, the ergonomics are compromised (left of diagram). The above diagram illustrates how the solid structural dimensions of the table and chairs, need to be adjusted, to take into account any plans for having separate cushions. As a matter of interest, 78.5cm for table height is actually erring towards more authentic, from a period point of view, as most early tables were quite high. ![]() As you can see, we were able to do this, whilst still keeping the chair seat to table top distance well below the 30cm maximum. So, to maintain an authentic appearance and still give the sitters a reasonable leg gap of 12cm, we increased the overall height of the table by 2.5cm, from the more normal 76cm. The two drawings below will show how we've successfully made adjustments from the 'norm', in order to suit our clients particular preferences:īecause of the table design above, the overall period look would have been compromised by making the carved table rail too short in height. So, it can start to become a bit of a trade-off, depending on your own personal priorities. c) Increasing the height of the table slightly, which will still keep us within the ideal maximum of 30cm between chair seat and table top. Although again, you may not want to do this. Be careful though, because go too far and it may start to look somewhat mean. However, if need be, it is quite easy to gain a bit extra by:Ī) Reducing the height of the rail from its current 9cm. In the diagram above, we have exactly the same height chairs and table as the pedestal table before but, as this is a refectory type table, the side rails have reduced the usable gap for our legs to 12cm. With a pedestal table, such as the one above, or a trestle type table (like our Medieval style tables), there are no side rails close to the table top edge, so the gap for our legs in this scenario, is 21cm. At this distance most adult people are able to sit and feel comfortable at the table, whether they're eating, doing paperwork etc. In the diagram above, you can clearly see that the relationship between a (fairly) normal chair seat height and a (fairly) normal table height, gives us the ideal 26cm. The minimum gap should be no less than 9cm which, I hasten to add, is a bit tight. As they should!īut we also have to factor in how much space we have for our legs, under the table. Indeed, most of our tables and chairs fit within this criteria. Most modern chairs have their seat height set at around 50cm from the floor and most dining tables are around 76cms high. Ignoring everything else for the moment, the realistic minimum distance between the chair seat and table top, is around 24cm, with the maximum being around 30cm. But introduce table top thickness and top rail height (together, as with refectory type tables), and you've effectively narrowed down the workable parameters.ĭrawing by Nicholas Berry © Early Oak Reproductions Of course, if you own a valued heirloom that you're never going to part with, then my last piece of advice can be safely ignored!įor ideal comfort, there is a direct correlation between chair seat height and table height. ![]() This will ensure that your new purchase is future proof. c) Buying a set of chairs to go with an existing table.īefore going further, it's worth suggesting that with b) and c) above, if your existing table or chairs are of an unusual height and you plan to replace at a later date, then it may be prudent to compromise at this stage. b) Buying a dining table to go with an existing set of chairs. So, table and chair height are important considerations and it doesn't matter if you're:Ī) Buying a dining table and chairs all together as a set (less likely here though for things to be wrong). Because, get it wrong, and you've quite possibly spent a few thousand pounds, on something that may not quite work as it should! After all, well from my experience anyway, a clients main concerns (usually) are: How many people can I sit, length of table, will it go in my room? Oh and width.īut I do regularly find myself bringing up the subject of height with our enquirers. At first glance it may not seem that important. While you're here, there's more invaluable information from the UK's leading reproduction furniture specialists:Ī Guide to Choosing the Ideal Dining Table WidthĪ Study of Period Dining Tables - Height and Width Dining Table Stretcher Layout Designsīack to the subject in hand. What is the Ideal Dining Table and Chair Height? ![]()
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